Kemp, Kundan, and Dhokra: A Beginner's Guide to India's Jewelry Techniques
Three names that show up across our jewelry edit — here's what actually separates them.
Browse Indian jewelry for more than a few minutes and three words start repeating: Kemp, Kundan, Dhokra. They get used almost interchangeably in casual conversation, but they're genuinely different techniques — different materials, different processes, different regions of origin. Knowing the difference makes it much easier to know what you're actually paying for. Here's each one, in plain terms, with real pieces from our own jewelry edit.
Kemp: Coloured Glass Stones Set in Gold-Tone Metal
Kemp jewelry gets its name from the Tamil word for a red gemstone the technique originally imitated, though today "Kemp stone" refers broadly to coloured glass stones — usually red, green, or white — set into gold-tone metal using a wax or resin base. It's strongly associated with South Indian temple jewelry, where the bold colour and antique gold finish were designed to catch light under temple lamps.
Kundan: Foiled Stones Set in Layered Gold
Kundan is older and more formal — a technique refined in Mughal-era royal courts, where gemstones (or, in more accessible pieces today, coloured glass or crystal) are backed with a thin gold or silver foil and set into pure gold using a technique called "khudai," which carves out the exact cavity each stone needs. That foil backing is what gives kundan stones their characteristic glow from within, rather than sitting flat like a simple bezel setting.
Dhokra: Lost-Wax Cast Brass, No Stones at All
Dhokra is a different category entirely — there's no stone-setting involved. It's a 4,000-year-old lost-wax metal casting technique practiced by artisan communities across West Bengal and Jharkhand, where a wax model is built by hand, coated in clay, and then melted out and replaced with molten brass. The mould is destroyed to release the finished piece, which means every single Dhokra piece is a one-time casting — no two are ever exactly identical.
The Three, Side by Side
| Technique | Uses stones? | Region | Signature look |
|---|---|---|---|
| Kemp | Yes — coloured glass | South India | Bold colour, antique matte gold |
| Kundan | Yes — foiled stones | North India (Mughal-era origin) | Glowing, faceted, formal |
| Dhokra | No — all metal | West Bengal, Jharkhand | Raised brass patterns, no two alike |
Caring for Any of the Three
- Keep all three away from perfumes, sprays, and moisture — the finish and any stone-set adhesive are both sensitive to it.
- Store each piece separately in a soft pouch or airtight box to prevent scratching.
- Wipe with a soft, dry cloth after wearing; avoid harsh cleaners on any of them.
- Remove before exercise or heavy activity, regardless of technique.
The Takeaway
None of these three techniques is "better" than the others — they're just different answers to the same question of how to make metal and colour catch the light. Kemp leans bold and temple-inspired, Kundan leans formal and glowing, Dhokra skips stones altogether in favour of pattern and one-of-a-kind casting. Once you can spot the difference, shopping for Indian jewelry gets a lot more interesting.
Explore Kemp, Kundan, and Dhokra pieces across House of Vandy's jewelry edit.
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